Most issues with pet reptiles is from the enclosure setup rather than the reptile itself. Before bringing the reptile home, make sure you've set up the heat gradient and lighting and tested your thermostats.
Why heat and light matter so much
Reptiles are ectothermic, which means they cannot generate their own body heat. For reptiles, the environment is key for digesting food, moving around and fighting off illness. If the temperature is too low, reptiles will eventually stop eating and become very sick. If the temperature is too high, they will not be able to find a cooler area and eventually die from organ failure.
Reptiles also create vitamin D3 from UVB light. Vitamin D3 is essential for the body to absorb calcium. Without it, the bones become weak and soft and permanently deformed. This condition is known as metabolic bone disease.
The heat gradient
Place the heat source at one end of the vivarium. The animal has to be able to move from a warm basking spot to a cooler area and back again. Generally, the animal will choose a warm basking spot and then move to a cooler area to help regulare body temperature. Look up the hot spot range and the cool end range for your animal. Again, use a reliable care sheet or reptile vet for this information.
Dual readings with digital thermometers. Not that one silly dial that gets stuck to the glass.
Thermostats
Nothing is true for all cases, but it is very close to being true to say that every heat source needs a thermostat.
- MatStat thermostat: Controls heat mats.
- CERAMIC HEATERS:
PULSE OR DIMMING THERMOSTAT - Basking Bulbs.
Without a guard, a heat source can overheat the vivarium and/or burn the animal. For lamps and heaters that the animal can reach, a mesh guard should be placed around the fixture. Snakes are susceptible to lamp and heater burns if a guard is not used.
UVB lighting
Bearded dragons and other day-active lizards need an appropriate source of strong UVB to synthesise vitamin D3 and other biological processes. A T5 fluorescent bulb (with a reflector) mounted on the top of the vivarium will provide appropriate UVB. Corn snakes and other related species, for example, would benefit from a lower level source of UVB.
The output of a UVB bulb decreases over its lifespan even if it looks like it is producing light. The manufacturer of the bulbs recommends replacing them annually. Write the date you replace the bulb on the fitting.
Glass and plastic block UVB rays, so the heat lamp cannot shine into the enclosure through the lid.
Common beginner species
Leodpard gecko: active at night, can live long, low, and calm, great first pet. Can be handled. Needs a warm spot, and a cool spot, with a hide for shedding. Feeds on live prey.
Bearded dragon: sociable, active during the day, large habitat (more than starter habitat), hot basking spot, strong UVB, insects/prey as food (adult will eat vegetables).
Corn snakes are calm and hardy. They are also great for beginner snake owners because they handle care and Escapes well. Corn snakes require a couple hides, a secure top, and a gradient. They eat frozen-thawed rodents.
Be sure to check the adult size of any species before making a purchase. It is better to buy the larger vivarium initially as compared to purchasing a smaller one and upgrading later on.
Substrate, hides and humidity
Choose a substrate appropriate for your species, whether it be paper towels or a bioactive soil mix. Provide a minimum of two hides, one at each end of the enclosure, so the user can feel secure and comfortable while being thermoregulated.
Certain species require higher humidity. For example, during shedding, many reptiles, like bearded dragons, require higher humidity levels. A hygrometer can help measure humidity levels.
Feeding
Insectivorous reptiles eat crickets, locusts and mealworms which must be dusted with calcium and a multivitamin. This varies by species and the age of the reptile. Before they’re offered to the reptile, insects should be eaten to improve their nutritional quality.
Snakes will eat prey whole. Buy frozen prey, let thaw at room temperature, and do not feed live prey.
• Water Purification -Store tablets, filters or other devices for water purification.
Handling
It is important to give a new reptile a week or two to settle in before handling. Always support the entire body when picking a lizard up. Never pick a lizard up by the tail. Start with short handling times.
Bearded dragons and corn snakes are a few examples of reptiles that like to be handled.
Hygiene
It is common for reptiles to carry salmonella without being symptomatic. For this reason it is suggested that you wash your hands after coming into contact with the reptile, its food or anything else in the vivarium. Equipement used by the reptile should be cleaned outdoors, as salmonella can be transferred to kitchen surfaces. Children should be supervised while in contact with reptiles, especially if the children are still very young.
Daily spot clean droppings and perform a full clean every two weeks.
Signs to watch
There are a number of symptoms that require the immediate attention of an herp vet. These symptoms include: eating outside of the normal seasonal slow down, lethargy, abnormal softness or swelling of the limbs, stuck shed that has left irritated skin around the toes and/or tail, discharge from the nose or mouth, and any sudden, unaccounted for weight loss.